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Cedar Side Table



Cedar Side Table Plans

Create a functional yet stylish accent for your porch, deck or patio with this cedar side table. This table makes an ideal surface for serving cold lemonade on hot summer days, a handy place to set your plate during a family cookout, or simply a comfortable place to rest your feet after a long day. Don't be fooled by its lightweight design and streamlined features—the little table is extremely sturdy. Structural features such as middle and end stringers tie the aprons and legs together and transfer weight from the table slats to the legs. This attractive little table is easy to build and will provide many years of durable service.

Materials List

Quantity   Lumber
2   1" × 3" × 8' cedar
6   1" × 4" × 8' cedar



Cutting List

Key   Part   Dimension   Pcs.   Material
A   End apron   3/4 × 3 1/2 × 26 1/2"   2   Cedar
B   Side apron   3/4 × 3 1/2 × 40 1/2"   2   Cedar
C   End stringer   3/4 × 2 1/2 × 18"   2   Cedar
D   Middle stringer   3/4 × 2 1/2 × 25"   2   Cedar
E   Narrow leg side   3/4 × 2 1/2 × 17 1/4"   4   Cedar
F   Wide leg side   3/4 × 3 1/2 × 17 1/4"   4   Cedar
G   Slat   3/4 × 3 1/2 × 40 1/2"   7   Cedar
Misc. : Moisture-resistant glue, 1 1/4" deck screws.
Note : Measurements reflect the actual size of dimension lumber


MAKE THE STRINGERS AND APRONS
1. The stringers and aprons form a frame for the tabletop slats. To make them, cut the end aprons (A) and side aprons (B) to length (photo A). For fast, straight cutting, use a speed square as a saw guide—the flange on the speed square hooks over the edge of the boards to hold it securely in place while you cut.

2. Cut the end stringers (C) and middle stringers (D) to length.

Use a speed square as a cutting guide and gang-cut the table parts when possible for uniform results.

MAKE THE LEG PARTS
1. Cut the narrow leg sides (E) and wide leg sides (F) to length.

2. On one wide leg side piece, measure 8 3/4" along one edge of the leg side and place a mark. Measure across the bottom end of the leg side 1 1/2" and place a mark. Connect the two marks to create a cutting line for the leg taper. Mark cutting lines for the tapers on all four wide leg sides (photo B).


Mark the ends of the tapers on the leg sides, then connect the marks to make taper cutting lines. 		 
Use a jig saw or circular saw to cut the leg tapers.

3. On the thin leg sides, measure 8 3/4" along an edge and 3/4" across the bottom end to make endpoints for the taper cutting lines.

4. Clamp each leg side to your work surface. Cut along the taper cutoff line, using a jig saw or circular saw, to create the tapered leg sides (photo C).Sand all leg parts smooth.


ASSEMBLE THE LEG PAIRS
1. Apply a 1/2"-wide layer of moisture-resistant glue on the face of a wide leg side, next to the untapered edge. Then apply a thin layer of glue to the untapered edge of a narrow leg side. Join the leg sides together at a right angle to form a leg pair. Reinforce the joint with 1 1/4" deck screws.

2. Glue and screw the rest of the leg pairs in the same manner (photo D). Be careful not to use too much glue. Excess glue can get messy and could cause problems later if you plan to stain or clear-coat the finish.

Fasten the leg pairs by driving deck screws through the face of the wide side and inot the narrow edge.

MAKE THE TABLETOP FRAME
1. Fasten the side aprons (B) to the leg pairs with glue and screws. Be sure to screw from the back side of the leg pair and into the side aprons so the screw heads will be concealed. The narrow leg side of each pair should be facing in toward the center of the side apron, with the outside faces of the wide leg sides flush with the ends of the side apron. The tops of the leg pairs should be 3/4" down from the tops of the side aprons to create recesses for the tabletop slats.

2. Attach the end aprons (A) to the leg assemblies with glue. Drive screws from the back side of the leg pairs. Make sure the end aprons are positioned so the ends are flush with the outside faces of the side aprons.

3. Attach the end stringers (C) to the end aprons between the leg pairs with glue. Drive the screws from the back sides of the end stringers and into the end aprons.

4. Cut the middle stringers (D) to length. Measure 13" in from the inside face of each end stringer and mark reference lines on the side aprons for positioning the middle stringers.

5. Use glue to attach the middle stringers to the side aprons—centered on the reference lines. Drive deck screws through the side aprons and into the ends of the middle stringers. Make sure the middle stringers are positioned 3/4" down from the tops of the side aprons (photo E).

Test the layout of the slats before you fasten them, adjusting as necessary to make sure gaps are even.

CUT AND INSTALL THE SLATS
1. Before you cut the slats (G), measure the inside dimension between the end aprons to be sure that the slat length is correct. Then cut the slats to length, using a circular saw and a speed square to keep the cuts square. It is extremely important to make square cuts on the ends of the slats since they're going to be the most visible cuts on the entire table.

2. Run a bead of glue along the top faces of the middle and end stringers. Screw the slats to the stringers leaving a gap of approximately 1/16" between each of the individual slats.

APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
1. Smooth all sharp edges by using a router with a roundover bit or a power sander with medium-grit (#100 to 120) sandpaper. Finish-sand the entire table and clean off the sanding residue.

2. Apply a finish, such as clear wood sealer. If you want, fill any screw counterbores with tinted wood putty.


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