PREPARE THE LEG ASSEMBLY
1. Cut the legs (A), stretchers (B) and spreader (C) to length. Measure and mark 4" up from the bottom edge of each leg to mark the positions of the bottom edges of the lower stretchers.

2. Test-fit the legs and stretchers to make sure they are square. The top stretchers should be flush with the top leg ends.

3. Carefully position the pieces and clamp them together with pipe clamps. The metal jaws on the pipe clamps can damage the wood, so use protective clamping pads.


BUILD THE LEG ASSEMBLY
1. Drill 7/8"-x 3/8"-deep counterbores positioned diagonally across the bottom end of each leg and opposite the lower stretchers (photo A). Drill 1/4"pilot holes through the counterbores and into the stretchers.

Counterbore two sets of holes on each leg to recess the lag bolts when you attach the legs to the stretchers.

2. Unclamp the pieces and drill 3/8" holes for lag screws through the legs, using the pilot holes as center marks.

3. Apply moisture-resistant glue to the ends of the stretchers. Attach the legs to the stretchers by driving lag screws with washers through the legs and into the stretchers. Use the same procedure to attach the spreader to the stretchers.


ATTACH CLEATS AND RAILS
1. Cut the side rails (G) and end rails (H) to length. Drill two evenly spaced, 1/8" pilot holes through the ends of the side rails. Counterbore the holes 1/4" deep, using a counterbore bit. Apply glue and fasten the side rails to the end rails with 2" deck screws.

2. Cut the end cleats (D), cross cleats (E) and side cleats (F) to length. Fasten the end cleats to the end rails 3/4" below the top edges of the rails with glue and 2" deck screws (photo B). Repeat this procedure with the side cleats and side rails.

Maintain a 3/4" distance from the top edge of the rails to the top edge of the cleats.

CUT AND ATTACH THE TOP SLATS
1. Cut the top slats (I) to length. Lay the slats into the tabletop frame so they rest on the cleats. Carefully spread the slats apart so they are evenly spaced. Use masking tape to hold the slats in place once you achieve the correct spacing (photo C).

Use pencils or dowels to set even gaps between top slats. Tape slats in position with masking tape.

2. Stand the tabletop frame on one end and fasten the top slats in place by driving two 2" deck screws through the end cleats and into each slat (photo D). Hold or clamp each slat firmly while fastening to prevent the screws from pushing the slats away from the frame.

Fasten cross cleats to the tabeltop for strength, and to provide and anchor for the leg assembly.

CONNECT THE LEGS AND TOP
1. Turn the tabletop over and center the legs on the underside. Make sure the legs are the same distance apart at the top as they are at the bottom.

2. Lay the cross cleats along the insides of the table legs (photo E). Fasten the cross cleats to the tabletop with 2" deck screws. Fasten the cross cleats to the legs with 3" deck screws.

Keep a firm grip on the tabletop slats when drilling deck screws through the cleats.

APPLY FINISHING TOUCHES
1. For a more finished appearance, fill exposed screw holes with cedar plugs or buttons. Smooth the edges of the table and legs with a sander or router (photo F).

Before you stain or treat the patio table, sand the surfaces smooth.

2. If you want to fit the table with a patio umbrella, use a 1 1/2"-dia. hole saw to cut a hole into the center of the tabletop. Use a drill and spade bit to cut the 1 1/2"-dia. hole through the spreader.

3. Finish the table as desired.