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Cedar Swing Plans

With its elegant design and supreme comfort, this smooth-action cedar swing will add both style and fun to your yard or patio. It seats three and can be built with easily obtainable materials.


Materials List

(2) cedar 2"6"x12'
(5) cedar 2X4X8
(8) 5' lengths of 1-1/4" thick 1X6 cedar fence board
(4) 4X4X8 fence posts
16.5' of chain, (600 lb. or greater strength)
(6) quick links (1" or larger)
(14") 1" hardwood dowel or broom handle
(1) 6" strip of 1" or 1 1/2" flat iron, 1/8" to 1/4" thick
(10) 3/8" or 3 1/2" carriage bolts
(8) 3/8" x 5 1/2" carriage bolts
(2) 3/8" x 6" carriage bolt
(20) 3/8" nuts
(24) 3/8" flat washers
(6) 3/8" x 3 1/2" lag eye bolts (large wood screw)
(2) 5/16" x 3 1/2" lag bolts
(12) 5/16"x 5" lag bolts
(14) 5/16" flat washers
(4) 1-1/2" #8 or #10 wood screws
(21) 1-3/4" brass plated screws
(10) 2-1/2" brass plated deck screws
(6) 3" brass plated deck screws
Waterproof glue


  Cut the three seat supports to 22-1/4" lengths from your 2X6 stock, and then shape it according your preferred design diagram. On the one that's to be used as the center support, cut along the dashed line indicated on your template.
  Cut the primary seat slat to 60" x 2-1/2" from the 2X4 stock, and the other six seat slats to the same dimensions from the 1X6. Then cut one more slat like the other six, but shape it as shown. Sand all of the parts, including the supports, and round over the edges if you'd like.
  After making sure that the edges of slats and supports are square, drill pilot holes and install the slats onto the supports with the brass plated deck screws. The thicker primary seat slat will fit into the notches near the front of the supports. For the thinner slats, use 1-3/4" long screws. Use the 2-1/2" long screws for the one thick slat. Install the decorative slat in front.
  Cut the two front legs to length from the 4X4, the two back uprights from the 2X6, and the arm supports to length from the 2X4. Then shape them as shown.
  With waterproof glue, glue the arm supports flush to the bottom of the back uprights. Sand the parts smooth. Then, at a point 1" from the top of the arm supports, drill a 1" centered hole and glue in a length of dowel, sanding the faces flush with the surface. This will give a better bite to the eyebolts that must support the weight of up to three adults.
  With the completed assembly sitting on the floor, position one front leg in a way that hides the primary seat slat from view. Drill one hole through the side and bolt it together, using a carriage bolt with nut and washer. Now adjust the angle of the leg to make the top surface horizontal.
  Cut the two leg braces to length from the 2X6 stock, and shape them. Sand the parts and round over the top edge with a router. Position the first leg brace behind the attached front leg, resting on the floor. Drill pilot holes and install two more 5" lag bolts into the rear of the seat brace. Finish up by adding another carriage bolt into the front leg and the back upright, and then repeat the steps on the other side.
  Now cut the arms to length from the 2X4s, and shape them. Using a handsaw, undercut the notched portion of each arm to fit the angle of the seat back. Round over the upper edges of the arms, leaving the notched portion square. Sand them both, and install using a carriage bolt at the back, and a brass deck screw at the front. Attach both off to one side, allowing room for the eyebolts to be installed at the center.
  Drill quarter-inch pilot holes for the eyebolts directly above the dowels installed earlier. Drive in your lag bolts, using a flat washer to pull the parts together tightly.
  Cut 2x4 stock to length for the lower back rail, and your 2x6 stock to the same length for the upper back rail. Shape both parts and cut a 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep slot into both rails to accept the tenons that will be cut into the slats.
  From your cedar fence boards, cut the upper back slat to size.and your two flare short slats, edge-gluing both parts to get the required lengths. Then cut two medium flare slats, two long flare slats, and two corner slats to size. Trace and shape all slats according to the templates, and sand them smooth.
  Then cut quarter-inch wide tenons at tops and bottoms. But note that the two corner slats only have tenons cut in the bottom.
Round over the edges of the rails and the slats, including the inner edges of the heart cutout, but not where the tenons are. Then, working on a flat surface, position the slats into the slot on the top and bottom rails, spacing them evenly. The ends of the corner slats should be square with the ends of the rails. Cut strips of wood to fill the gaps between the slats, and glue them into the rail slots. Then remove the slats and sand the glued strips flush with the surface.
  Assemble the back, minus the corner slats, and position the assembly between the rear legs. With three-inch screws, attach the back uprights to the top rail. Then drill pilot holes into the bottom rail for the 5" lag bolts with flat washers. Now position the corner slats and drive your 2-1/2" screws into them through the upright.
  You'll use the 6" strip of flat iron for maximum reinforcement of the center of the seat. Grind or file the ends smooth and paint it with rust preventive paint. Then drill four 1/4" holes vertically along the strip and install it with your wood screws along the center of the bottom rail and wrapped over the center seat support.
  Cut the four post legs to length. Transfer the profiles of the contour templates onto the ends of each part and cut to shape. Then cut the two short braces and the two long braces from the 2X4s, trim the ends according to the template, and sand the exposed cuts. Bolt together the two A-frame assemblies of post legs and braces, using carriage bolts.
  To form the crossbar, cut one of your 2X6 cedar boards to a 10' length and cut the ends to shape to the template. Now cut the two diagonal braces to length and shape them. Round over each end of the braces, also according to the template.
  On location, hoist the A-frames upright and place the crossbar into the slots at the top. About eleven and a quarter inch overhang is required at each end. Drill a 3/8" diameter hole through the tops of the posts and through the crossbar, and bolt the assembly together with a 6" carriage bolt, washer and nut. Then repeat at the other end.
  Square the A-frames to the crossbar, then drill a pilot hole and drive in a 3-1/2 inch lag bolt through the short brace and into the end of the diagonal brace on one side. Next, drill another pilot hole and drive a 5-inch lag bolt in an angled upward direction through the top end of the diagonal brace and into the crossbar. Then drill a quarter-inch pilot hole into the crossbar, next to the diagonal brace, and drive in 3-1/2" lag eyebolt, and repeat on the other side.
  Cut two lengths of chain that is suitable for outdoor use and capable of supporting at least 600 pounds. Place a quick link over the center link of each chain, and hang the chains from the eyebolts. Hang the bench using quick links to connect the chains to the eyebolts. You can adjust the chain length for the most comfortable bench height and angle. Be sure to tighten all quick links securely with a wrench. Simply add a suitable outdoor finish to the bench, and either finish or leave your supporting framework natural.



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