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Cut
the three seat supports to 22-1/4" lengths
from your 2X6 stock, and then shape it according
your preferred design diagram. On the one that's
to be used as the center support, cut along the
dashed line indicated on your template. |
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Cut
the primary seat slat to 60" x 2-1/2"
from the 2X4 stock, and the other six seat slats
to the same dimensions from the 1X6. Then cut one
more slat like the other six, but shape it as
shown. Sand all of the parts, including the
supports, and round over the edges if you'd like. |
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After
making sure that the edges of slats and supports
are square, drill pilot holes and install the
slats onto the supports with the brass plated
deck screws. The thicker primary seat slat will
fit into the notches near the front of the
supports. For the thinner slats, use 1-3/4"
long screws. Use the 2-1/2" long screws for
the one thick slat. Install the decorative slat
in front. |
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Cut
the two front legs to length from the 4X4, the
two back uprights from the 2X6, and the arm
supports to length from the 2X4. Then shape them
as shown. |
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With
waterproof glue, glue the arm supports flush to
the bottom of the back uprights. Sand the parts
smooth. Then, at a point 1" from the top of
the arm supports, drill a 1" centered hole
and glue in a length of dowel, sanding the faces
flush with the surface. This will give a better
bite to the eyebolts that must support the weight
of up to three adults. |
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With
the completed assembly sitting on the floor,
position one front leg in a way that hides the
primary seat slat from view. Drill one hole
through the side and bolt it together, using a
carriage bolt with nut and washer. Now adjust the
angle of the leg to make the top surface
horizontal. |
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Cut
the two leg braces to length from the 2X6 stock,
and shape them. Sand the parts and round over the
top edge with a router. Position the first leg
brace behind the attached front leg, resting on
the floor. Drill pilot holes and install two more
5" lag bolts into the rear of the seat
brace. Finish up by adding another carriage bolt
into the front leg and the back upright, and then
repeat the steps on the other side. |
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Now
cut the arms to length from the 2X4s, and shape
them. Using a handsaw, undercut the notched
portion of each arm to fit the angle of the seat
back. Round over the upper edges of the arms,
leaving the notched portion square. Sand them
both, and install using a carriage bolt at the
back, and a brass deck screw at the front. Attach
both off to one side, allowing room for the
eyebolts to be installed at the center. |
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Drill
quarter-inch pilot holes for the eyebolts
directly above the dowels installed earlier.
Drive in your lag bolts, using a flat washer to
pull the parts together tightly. |
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Cut
2x4 stock to length for the lower back rail, and
your 2x6 stock to the same length for the upper
back rail. Shape both parts and cut a 1/4"
wide and 3/8" deep slot into both rails to
accept the tenons that will be cut into the
slats. |
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From
your cedar fence boards, cut the upper back slat
to size.and your two flare short slats,
edge-gluing both parts to get the required
lengths. Then cut two medium flare slats, two
long flare slats, and two corner slats to size.
Trace and shape all slats according to the
templates, and sand them smooth. |
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Then
cut quarter-inch wide tenons at tops and bottoms.
But note that the two corner slats only have
tenons cut in the bottom.
Round over the edges of the rails and the slats,
including the inner edges of the heart cutout,
but not where the tenons are. Then, working on a
flat surface, position the slats into the slot on
the top and bottom rails, spacing them evenly.
The ends of the corner slats should be square
with the ends of the rails. Cut strips of wood to
fill the gaps between the slats, and glue them
into the rail slots. Then remove the slats and
sand the glued strips flush with the surface. |
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Assemble
the back, minus the corner slats, and position
the assembly between the rear legs. With
three-inch screws, attach the back uprights to
the top rail. Then drill pilot holes into the
bottom rail for the 5" lag bolts with flat
washers. Now position the corner slats and drive
your 2-1/2" screws into them through the
upright. |
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You'll
use the 6" strip of flat iron for maximum
reinforcement of the center of the seat. Grind or
file the ends smooth and paint it with rust
preventive paint. Then drill four 1/4" holes
vertically along the strip and install it with
your wood screws along the center of the bottom
rail and wrapped over the center seat support. |
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Cut
the four post legs to length. Transfer the
profiles of the contour templates onto the ends
of each part and cut to shape. Then cut the two
short braces and the two long braces from the
2X4s, trim the ends according to the template,
and sand the exposed cuts. Bolt together the two
A-frame assemblies of post legs and braces, using
carriage bolts. |
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To
form the crossbar, cut one of your 2X6 cedar
boards to a 10' length and cut the ends to shape
to the template. Now cut the two diagonal braces
to length and shape them. Round over each end of
the braces, also according to the template. |
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On
location, hoist the A-frames upright and place
the crossbar into the slots at the top. About
eleven and a quarter inch overhang is required at
each end. Drill a 3/8" diameter hole through
the tops of the posts and through the crossbar,
and bolt the assembly together with a 6"
carriage bolt, washer and nut. Then repeat at the
other end. |
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Square
the A-frames to the crossbar, then drill a pilot
hole and drive in a 3-1/2 inch lag bolt through
the short brace and into the end of the diagonal
brace on one side. Next, drill another pilot hole
and drive a 5-inch lag bolt in an angled upward
direction through the top end of the diagonal
brace and into the crossbar. Then drill a
quarter-inch pilot hole into the crossbar, next
to the diagonal brace, and drive in 3-1/2"
lag eyebolt, and repeat on the other side. |
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Cut
two lengths of chain that is suitable for outdoor
use and capable of supporting at least 600
pounds. Place a quick link over the center link
of each chain, and hang the chains from the
eyebolts. Hang the bench using quick links to
connect the chains to the eyebolts. You can
adjust the chain length for the most comfortable
bench height and angle. Be sure to tighten all
quick links securely with a wrench. Simply add a
suitable outdoor finish to the bench, and either
finish or leave your supporting framework
natural. |