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Fan
Back Adirondack Chair Plans
 |
Sit
down, and stay awhile. You'll certainly want to
in this attractive adirondack chair. The
contoured back and seat are so comfortable it
doesn't even need cushions. The chair is simple
to build, and you'll enjoy it even more knowing
you made it yourself. The basic adirondack design
is familiar, but this one has an added Southern
touch: The wide, tapering back boards are spread
in a fan shape to give them a softer, rounder
look. The same shape is used for the armrests, so
all the boards can be cut from one pattern. This
adirondack chair design works out so the armrests
are level and the rounded end is wide enough to
hold a glass or plate. |
Materials
List
| Part No. |
|
Description |
|
Size |
|
No. req'd |
| A |
|
Arms |
|
1 x 6 x 29" |
|
2 |
| B |
|
Back boards |
|
1 x 6 x 30" |
|
5 |
| C |
|
Lower back brace |
|
1 x 4 x 21" |
|
1 |
| D |
|
Upper back brace |
|
1 x 6 x 26
1/2" |
|
1 |
| E |
|
Facing |
|
1 x 8 x 24" |
|
1 |
| F |
|
Wing braces |
|
1 x 3 x 13
1/2" |
|
2 |
| G |
|
Back legs |
|
1 x 6 x 40" |
|
2 |
| H |
|
Front legs |
|
2 x 4 x 22
1/2" |
|
2 |
| I |
|
Seat slats |
|
1 x 3 x 21" |
|
6 |
Cutting
the Pieces
Taper the fence back boards and arms, production
style. Using a table saw or radial arm saw, first
cut seven 1 x 6 pieces for the arms and back to
30" long (you will trim the arms to 29"
later). Then mark the pattern on all the boards.

Round one end of each board with a saber saw or
jig saw using a fine-tooth blade. Next make a jig
from a 1 x 10 x 36" board. The 1 x 2 stops
will hold all the boards in the same position as
they pass through the saw.

To find the correct placement of the longer stop,
place one of the 1 x 6 pieces on the jig with the
square end against the short stop. Be sure to
clamp it in place with only the part to be cut
away hanging over the side.
Place the fence back board against the other side
of the 1 x 6 board, and tack it in place, leaving
the heads of the nails protruding. You'll need to
reposition the longer stop to cut the other side
of the board.
Remove the clamps from the 1 x 6, and cut all the
boards on one side. Turn them over, adjust the
longer stop in the same manner as before, and cut
the other side of the boards. Trim two of the
boards to 29" long for the arms.
Following the dimensions shown below, lay out and
cut the other parts for the chair.
Assembly


Start assembling
the chair by joining the front legs and
seat supports. Be sure to make one right
and one left. Brace the leg against a
framing square, and clamp the 1 x 6 with
the front corner 15" from the bottom
of the front leg and back resting on the
ground. Drill pilot holes for the screws
from the inside of the legs out, and join
the two boards with exterior wood glue
and 2" gypsum drywall screws. Cut
the front edge of the 1 x 6 flush with
the face of the leg with a saber saw. |
Connect the
leg/seat supports you have just joined
with the lower back support and the first
seat slat. Glue and nail the connecting
pieces with exterior wood glue and
4-penny galvanized finishing nails.
Position the first seat slat flush with
the front edge of the seat support, and
position the lower back support 19
1/4" from the front of the seat
support.
Next, add the 1 x 8 facing. Position the
top of the facing flush with the top of
the first seat slat. Glue and nail the
facing with 6-penny galvanized finishing
nails.
Attach the arms, making sure that they
overhang the front legs 3 1/2". The
arms should be centered on the legs.
Temporarily clamp upper back brace to the
arms. Make sure the arms are lined up
over back legs/seat supports. Screw arms
in place, countersink the screw heads.
Before adding the wing braces, drill
pilot holes for the screws with recesses
for the heads to be covered later. Use
2" screws on the inside of the front
legs at the widest part of the brace and
a 1 1/2" screw from the outside in
on the lower part of the brace. The face
of the wing braces is positioned 1
1/8" from the front of the leg. |
Mark the position
of the leg and brace underneath the arms.
Glue and nail in place. Note: You may
want to place heavy weights on the front
of the arms while the glue dries. Now,
clamp the upper back brace and the arms
together. Nail and glue only the center
board at the lower and upper supports
with 4-penny galvanized nails and
exterior wood glue. Before nailing the
rest of the back boards, the arms have to
be screwed together, trimmed at the back,
and notched at the front.
Drill pilot holes with recesses on the
underside of each arm where the support
and arm cross. Place them so you can trim
the outside edge as shown. Use 1
1/4" gypsum drywall screws. Round
off the outside edge with a jig saw. |
The back boards shorten as
they fan out, so you will have to nail
them in place and then trim them off at
the bottom. Mark the two boards on either
side of the center 2 3/4" from the
bottom of the board on the side next to
the center. Align mark with the bottom of
the lower back support. Keep about
3/8" gap between each of the boards.
Glue and nail in place. Mark the two
outside boards in a similar manner, but
this time place the mark 5 1/2" from
the bottom. Glue and nail in place. With
a saber saw, cut the boards even with the
center board across the bottom. Finish
attaching the seat slats, spacing them
approximately 5/8" apart. |
|
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