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Fan Back Adirondack Chair Plans

Sit down, and stay awhile. You'll certainly want to in this attractive adirondack chair. The contoured back and seat are so comfortable it doesn't even need cushions. The chair is simple to build, and you'll enjoy it even more knowing you made it yourself. The basic adirondack design is familiar, but this one has an added Southern touch: The wide, tapering back boards are spread in a fan shape to give them a softer, rounder look. The same shape is used for the armrests, so all the boards can be cut from one pattern. This adirondack chair design works out so the armrests are level and the rounded end is wide enough to hold a glass or plate.



Materials List

Part No.   Description   Size   No. req'd
A   Arms   1 x 6 x 29"   2
B   Back boards   1 x 6 x 30"   5
C   Lower back brace   1 x 4 x 21"   1
D   Upper back brace   1 x 6 x 26 1/2"   1
E   Facing   1 x 8 x 24"   1
F   Wing braces   1 x 3 x 13 1/2"   2
G   Back legs   1 x 6 x 40"   2
H   Front legs   2 x 4 x 22 1/2"   2
I   Seat slats   1 x 3 x 21"   6


Cutting the Pieces

Taper the fence back boards and arms, production style. Using a table saw or radial arm saw, first cut seven 1 x 6 pieces for the arms and back to 30" long (you will trim the arms to 29" later). Then mark the pattern on all the boards.


Round one end of each board with a saber saw or jig saw using a fine-tooth blade. Next make a jig from a 1 x 10 x 36" board. The 1 x 2 stops will hold all the boards in the same position as they pass through the saw.


To find the correct placement of the longer stop, place one of the 1 x 6 pieces on the jig with the square end against the short stop. Be sure to clamp it in place with only the part to be cut away hanging over the side.

Place the fence back board against the other side of the 1 x 6 board, and tack it in place, leaving the heads of the nails protruding. You'll need to reposition the longer stop to cut the other side of the board.

Remove the clamps from the 1 x 6, and cut all the boards on one side. Turn them over, adjust the longer stop in the same manner as before, and cut the other side of the boards. Trim two of the boards to 29" long for the arms.

Following the dimensions shown below, lay out and cut the other parts for the chair.

   


 

 


Assembly







Start assembling the chair by joining the front legs and seat supports. Be sure to make one right and one left. Brace the leg against a framing square, and clamp the 1 x 6 with the front corner 15" from the bottom of the front leg and back resting on the ground. Drill pilot holes for the screws from the inside of the legs out, and join the two boards with exterior wood glue and 2" gypsum drywall screws. Cut the front edge of the 1 x 6 flush with the face of the leg with a saber saw.


Connect the leg/seat supports you have just joined with the lower back support and the first seat slat. Glue and nail the connecting pieces with exterior wood glue and 4-penny galvanized finishing nails. Position the first seat slat flush with the front edge of the seat support, and position the lower back support 19 1/4" from the front of the seat support.

Next, add the 1 x 8 facing. Position the top of the facing flush with the top of the first seat slat. Glue and nail the facing with 6-penny galvanized finishing nails.

Attach the arms, making sure that they overhang the front legs 3 1/2". The arms should be centered on the legs. Temporarily clamp upper back brace to the arms. Make sure the arms are lined up over back legs/seat supports. Screw arms in place, countersink the screw heads.

Before adding the wing braces, drill pilot holes for the screws with recesses for the heads to be covered later. Use 2" screws on the inside of the front legs at the widest part of the brace and a 1 1/2" screw from the outside in on the lower part of the brace. The face of the wing braces is positioned 1 1/8" from the front of the leg.


Mark the position of the leg and brace underneath the arms. Glue and nail in place. Note: You may want to place heavy weights on the front of the arms while the glue dries. Now, clamp the upper back brace and the arms together. Nail and glue only the center board at the lower and upper supports with 4-penny galvanized nails and exterior wood glue. Before nailing the rest of the back boards, the arms have to be screwed together, trimmed at the back, and notched at the front.

Drill pilot holes with recesses on the underside of each arm where the support and arm cross. Place them so you can trim the outside edge as shown. Use 1 1/4" gypsum drywall screws. Round off the outside edge with a jig saw.


The back boards shorten as they fan out, so you will have to nail them in place and then trim them off at the bottom. Mark the two boards on either side of the center 2 3/4" from the bottom of the board on the side next to the center. Align mark with the bottom of the lower back support. Keep about 3/8" gap between each of the boards. Glue and nail in place. Mark the two outside boards in a similar manner, but this time place the mark 5 1/2" from the bottom. Glue and nail in place. With a saber saw, cut the boards even with the center board across the bottom. Finish attaching the seat slats, spacing them approximately 5/8" apart.


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